Sourced mostly from Peay’s Annapolis estate, with a small portion garnered from the nearby Campbell Ranch, this has a coastal purity to its aroma, a clean, violet perfume that’s captivating. Structurally, the wine is taut, the tannins holding a chalky grip even with a day of air. Another year in bottle should help round off its edges; save it for grilled whole sockeye during next autumn’s Pacific salmon run.