“It is difficult to get a good feel for the true character of a clone when the site and the winemaker tend to make a strong impression,” says Nick Peay, of Peay Vineyards in Annapolis, California. “Not only is it exceedingly rare to taste a single clone out of a neutral barrel, [but] if the winemaker favors excessive ripeness, that will obscure the true character of the clone.”

Nick and his brother, Andy Peay, planted seven Pinot Noir clones and heritage selections in 1998. Today, they grow up to 13.