Julian Peay, Vanessa Wong and Nick Peay’s two-and-a-half-year-old son, likes blackberries. On a warm afternoon in August, he watched his father and his uncle, Andy, lead a stranger down into the vineyard. At what he believed to be a safe distance, he climbed down the porch of the farmhouse, stomped through the fence posts where a wooden gate used to be, hid for a moment under the crouching pear tree, then kicked some of the windfall on his way to the pricker bush.