
The fog at Peay’s far-coast vineyard seems to invest syrah with meaty peppercorn spice, the element in this wine that powers the red fruit with a nearly electric buzz. The color translates the fog into a vibrant, rosy edge: the tannins take it to mean minerals, as if picking up on the same soil character that pinot noir might translate into wine. La Bruma continues to grow more distinctive and elegant with each vintage.